Seven Life Lessons I Learned Growing Up Surfing
I grew up on Central California’s Pacific coast, along the Monterey Bay. It’s an awesome place to grow up if you love the ocean, and I do.
From an early age I remember body surfing at the Asilomar with my older cousin. In those endless days, happily bobbing in the frigid Pacific waters among the sea weed and the sea lions, I learned to make the most out of every wave my beach sent me.
As I think back now, I realize those waves and that beach also taught me a good deal about making the most out of everything life sends me.
Here’s seven life lessons I learned growing up body surfing:
If you miss a wave, don’t worry, another will be along soon enough.
Sometimes you have to miss a good wave if you want to catch an even better one on the horizon.
It takes real work to get into position to catch the right wave and ride it to the end.
Some waves will thrash you pretty bad, but they are usually the most fun.
If you get swept out by the tide, remain calm, change direction slightly (parallel to the beach), and swim back to where you were last in good water.
It’s better to surf with a partner than alone.
Never miss a sunset if you can help it.
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